Amalfi Coast Part Three

Dinner at La Moressa

La Posteria has a sister restaurant that has a slightly different menu, but much more impressive view. Having been so wowed by LP, we decided we had to try it and booked for dinner the following night. We left our apartment around sunset and made our way up the hill to one of the worlds greatest balconies..

It’s an odd set up: you book a table, but it’s first in best dressed in terms of which you get. We made sure we were pretty much first and perched ourselves on the edge looking out at yachts making their way home from Capri and Positano. Right around sunset theres a rush in both directions that you can just stare at happily with a glass of wine in hand.

We enjoyed cocktails, wine, and magnificent food and chatted into the evening. The weather was, as it always seems to be, perfect… shorts required. You really couldn’t imagine a better spot.

Path of the Gods

The path of the gods is one of the worlds great walks according to the locals (slightly biased) opinion, but also one of the hottest and steepest if you start from Praiano. Steph/P&H were up at roosters to take it on, I decided discretion was the better part of valour (heights very much not being my thing) and waved them off at around 6am as they prepared to take on the 2000 steps up required before you can start the thing!

Steph: We headed out the door or our apartment and immediately faced with a long flight of stairs. We left early fearing the insane heat that would soon come.. a few wrong turns later we found “the sign”.

We started the climb thinking it wasn’t too bad - the morning light was creeping over the mountains and it was difficult to decipher where they sky stopped and the sea began. Before too long we were huffing and puffing, sweating and questioning our decision. On multiple occasions Paul and Hashie called out “go on without us!” but i felt better with them stuck behind me, me - a paragon of fitness (thanks David).

Once we had made the path we made good progress. At one point we found ourselves following.. well, a trail of poop.. only to round a corner and come face to face with a couple of guys and their mules. They spoke not a world of english but were happy to have their photos taken, so that worked for me! The path was littered with private vineyards, rambling kitchen gardens and small farms with chickens, pigs, goats and donkeys, when we said the Amalfi is still owned by the locals, this is it. Yes the tourists are there, but this is still a place to live, not just visit.

The walk was mirrored by an automatic rail, presumably used to move goods and groceries to the homes along the path (imagine your address was 123, Path of the Gods?!).

After the climb the rest of the walk was fairly comfortable. We were met with spectacular views of the coast along edges with sheer drops. (Dave made the correct decision not to join this walk as he would have had to crawl for the vast majority of it :S). As the sun rose so did the temperature but we had made good progress and were still in pretty good shape as we made it to a very good labrador who greeted us at the ‘end’ of the path. However, it was another couple of km’s walk to the bus stop that would take us back to town. I abandoned P&H at Positano and jumped on another bus to join Dave for a swim down at One fire beach..

Date night

We had decided to split up for our last evening and have a date night. Paul and Hashie booked at the locally famous Kasai first, the cheeky swines, so we booked (the equally highly rated though slightly less cool looking M’ama (still very cool, with a ridiculous rooftop view.

Steph and I shared bubbles and wonderful food and were again struck by how lucky and happy we were.. what a unique and incredible place we were in!

We had.both been looking forward to the Amalfi, having heard so much about it and being ready for some pampering, but nothing had prepared us for how spectacular and unique the place was. Genuinely a stand alone, one of one experience, we could not recommend it any more strongly.