Leaving Kyoto and heading to Nakatsugawa
Our last morning in Kyoto was bittersweet, but with a noon checkout, we were determined to squeeze every last drop out of our time there. We kicked off the day with what Dave declared "the best coffee he's ever had" at Weekenders Coffee. Paired with some morel pastries from 2/7 bakery, it was the perfect fuel for a last-minute spot of shopping.
Onto Nakastugawa
Next stop, Nakatsugawa. This small town would be our base for exploring a section of the historic Nakasendo trail - specifically, the famous walk from Magome to Tsumago.
The Nakasendo was one of five centrally administered routes connecting Edo (modern-day Tokyo) with Kyoto during the Edo period (1603-1868). The Magome to Tsumago section is one of the best-preserved parts of this ancient highway, offering hikers a glimpse into Japan's feudal past. This 8-kilometer stretch between two former post towns has been lovingly restored, allowing visitors to step back in time and experience a slice of old Japan.
We arrived in Nakatsugawa in the late afternoon and took a stroll around the small town, stretching our legs after the train journey. Our wanderings led us to an unexpected culinary gem - Hey's bar and restaurant. Who would have thought we'd find a fusion of Latin, Italian, and Tex-Mex cuisine in this corner of Japan? It turned out to be one of the best meals of our entire trip. Sometimes, the most memorable experiences come when you least expect them!
Magome to Tsumago - The Nakasendo Trail
The next morning, we hopped on a bus to Magome to begin our walk. Magome, our starting point, is a picturesque postal town that looks like it's been frozen in time. Traditional wooden buildings line the steep, stone-paved main street, their dark wood contrasting beautifully with the white plaster walls. Small shops and cafes nestle between former inns, though most are still closed when we get there.
The path took us through a constantly changing landscape - tiny villages, dense forests providing welcome shade, and open rice fields stretching out under the blue sky.
Midway through our hike, we stumbled upon a free tea house run by a local. The aroma of the open fire inside was so inviting. We gratefully accepted the offered icy water, a cup of green tea and a sweet treat as we rested our legs.
Refreshed, we continued on, soon reaching one of the highlights of the trail - the Otaki and Metaki waterfalls. These beautiful cascades, nestled in the dense, almost tropical forest, were a sight to behold. The crystal-clear pools at the base of the falls looked so inviting that it took all our willpower not to jump in for a quick dip!
Finally, we reached Tsumago, the beautiful bookend to our journey. This well-preserved post town, with its traditional buildings and car-free streets, felt like we'd walked right into a scene from a historical drama. After treating ourselves to a cold drink, we caught the bus to the train station to retrieve our bags from Nakatsugawa.
With our belongings in tow, we fueled up with a quick bowl of noodles at the station before boarding a train to Nagano, and then on to Yamanouchi - our gateway to see the famous snow monkeys.