Iceland Part Two

Geysir & Stokkur

After camping at Skogafoss for the night, we headed off pretty early back along the south coast to Geysir. Having never been to the North Island of New Zealand, this was a new experience for me (Steph). The smell of the sulphur was nowhere near as bad as I had imagined (I hardly noticed it), and the periodically spouting hot spring was very cool! It was really strange to see little streams of almost boiling water running through the rocks and it was very difficult to resist wanting to touch it.

Icelandic Horses

Aren't they just so handsome?! These guys were so inquisitive. When we approached the fence from the side of the road, they were on the other side of the paddock but once they spotted us, much to my delight, they came galloping towards us with their very silly fringes and a convoy of flies...

Gullfoss

Close to Geysir was the very popular Gullfoss. This waterfall, derived from the Hvítá river which comes from the lake of the Lángjökull glacier, gushes towards a 32m large crevice that creates a lot of spray and is moderately terrifying!

Fontana Springs

In need of a good soak, we visited Fontana Springs and spent a couple of hours enjoying the geothermal mineral springs (averaging 28-36 degrees), as well as their sauna and steam rooms. Divine!

Photo credit: Grayline Tours

Photo credit: Grayline Tours

Waking up just outside of Borgarnes

After far too much driving, we finally decided to pull in off the road along a little path that looked like it would offer us a place to stay for the night. A little spinning of the tyres up a small hill later we arrived at a stunning little spot by a lake. Both pretty tired and grumpy, we boiled some water and, yet again, had instant noodles for dinner alongside a bottle of red. We were much more in awe of our sleeping spot the next morning! The colours in the volcanic earth were stunning. 

Kirkjufellsfoss

Apparently the most photographed spot in Iceland. The weather was pretty drizzly and grey whilst we were there and we didn't have the time to stick around for better light. To be honest, we were a little underwhelmed after seeing some of Iceland's other natural wonders!

Saxholl Crater

One of the unexpected treasurers we ran into while on the peninsula, a 100 odd metre high extinct volcano chimney. Winding up the side, the stairs made of slightly rusty iron, stood out starkly against the slate grey and black of the lava rocks covering the small mountain. The rocks themselves were unbelievably light and melted into crazy shapes with odd angles that screwed with your eyes. The centre was a verdant little oasis of moss, grass and little birds and from the rim we had a stunning view of the surrounding lava plains. 

 

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Onward we went across the lava plains towards the western most point of iceland. The peninsula itself is volcanically active and exists because of the large glacier bound volcano that hulks above the entire place, which lends a fairly ominous glory to everything you look at. It was most cloud topped while we were there but it still dominated much of the viewing along the coast. The volcanism creates amazing colours and landscapes we're rocks have crumbed and various elements like iron and copper add crazy palates to the already surreal valleys and hills. 

Víðgelmir Cave

Beware of trolls and elves they lurk in Icelandic caves or so we were reliably told. The cave itself is 15 minutes down one of the more dodgy unsealed roads you'll come across up to what can charitably be described as a school portable building. However, once you leave those salubrious surrounds and head out onto another stark lava plain, you quickly discover one of the crazier outcomes of lava flows. Once the lava hits the air the top forms a crust, kind of like a creme brûlée, and the hot lava flows underneath. Sometimes when it hits a harder rock, it will begin to tunnel (melt away the stuff in its way) underground, forming giant worm like tunnels. "The Cave" is one such, a couple of kilometres of lava tunnels with crazy walls that looked like they were covered in ice magic and rocks in all sorts of crazy reds and blues. 

Back to Þingvellir National Park

We returned to Þingvellir National Park to get a view of the Silfra, the point where the American and European continents are slowly pulling apart. The area is full of canyons and small lakes filled with the clearest water you can imagine. 

Blue Lagoon

One of the many oddities of Iceland the Blue Lagoon. Made of industrial run off from the creation of electricity from underground hot springs, these lagoons of iridescent blue and white create a totally alien looking landscape. Around 30 years ago some guy looking to cure a skin condition started swimming in it (must have been a really bad condition) and discovered apparent healing properties. Like everything else in Iceland it doesn't have anything around it, sitting alone 30ks from anything but full of tour buses and people. Truely a fascinating addition to the glorious weirdness of Iceland. 

Reykjavic

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Our last evening with Berlingo and the Icelandic horses in Mosfellsbær

Takk Iceland!

Iceland Part One

Iceland, we finally meet! After a short flight from Glasgow to Reykjavic, we arrived at Keflavik airport to begin our adventure in a campervan. Anyone who knows us will be aware that it's really not our chosen style of travelling, but nonetheless we gave it a shot. 

We met our ride, a Citroën Berlingo, at the Snail Campervan Hire base not far from the center of Reykjavic. At the sight of our 'micro' home for the next week, David was quite fearful and unsure about whether we'd both make it back. They kitted us up with camp chairs, cutlery, a portable stove, pots and pans and curtains for the windows as it doesn't really get dark in Iceland during summer and, after a thirty second test run of driving a left hand manual car in their driveway, we were off... on the wrong side of the road (most of the time!).

Þingvellir National Park

We decided to stay the first night not far out of town at Þingvellir National Park. The park sits in a rift valley caused by the separation of 2 tectonic plates, so there are large crevices throughout.

Seljalandsfoss

From Þingvellir National Park we headed south along the coast and stopped by Seljalandsfoss. You can walk behind this waterfall into a shallow cave, but you do get very wet! We had hoped to see it in better weather conditions, but it was still pretty epic.

Skógafoss

Next stop was Skógafoss, one of the largest waterfalls in Iceland, with a fall of 60m and a width of 15m. This one was ridiculously strong as you can see from the amount of spray it produces. We had the ability to walk up and view the waterfall from above, so after we huffed and puffed our way up the stairs we were welcomed by a gorgeous view beyond. Not only that but we were also welcomed by many sheep, of which there are plenty in Iceland. You have to be careful when driving as they are commonly just grazing in the gutter beside the road when they decide that they'll cross without warning! After our descent we stopped for some lunch and a Mori, a delicious Icelandic red ale.

 

Sólheimajökull Glacier

Just past Skógafoss was Sólheimajökull Glacier. This relatively accessible glacier had a wonderful otherworldly landscape full of ridges and lines of ash in the ice, revealing the many eruptions Iceland has experienced over time.

 

Solheimasandur Plane Wreck

This one was definitely on my list of things to see but we managed to stumble upon it by accident. From the road we saw a full carpark but couldn't quite work out what for, so we stopped to check it out. We could see a longish path leading to what looked to be a beach and decided to have a quick wander up before heading on. Six kilometers and an hour and fifteen minutes walking along a rocky, dusty, lifeless landscape we could see something white and glistening; maybe it's the ice beach, we thought. As we continued walking, and after we had considered turning around for the tenth time, we could see it was the plane. It was a really surreal sight and totally worth the very long and boring walk!

In 1973 a United States Navy DC plane ran out of fuel and crashed on the black beach of Solheimasandur (nobody was killed).

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

I'm so glad we made it here, and although I'd hoped for a bit of sun, I'm really glad we had a dark, ominous sky to really emphasise the moody grandeur of this canyon. The scale of this place and colour of the water is hard to reproduce in photographs, but it was amazing. Definitely a favourite for both of us.

Part two with drone footage to come...