Yamanouchi

Our day began with us donning our Yukatas and enjoying a delightful buffet breakfast at the hotel. Today's mission: see the famous snow monkeys of Jigokudani Yaen Koen, or "Hell's Valley Snow Monkey Park." While typically thought of as a winter activity, we'd heard the monkeys stick around even in the warmer months. The park is a natural habitat where Japanese Macaques come to bathe in the hot springs.

We decided to walk to the park as Google maps told us it was about 3km and would take around 30 minutes, which sounded easy enough. Not quite… We soon found ourselves trudging up an almost vertical incline in 34-degree heat. To add insult to injury, it soon dawned on us that the 3km mark was just the turn-off for the Snow Monkey park. Another 2.4km lay ahead. At this point, Dave was less than thrilled, bemoaning our decision not to take the free shuttle from the hotel.

Finally, we arrived at the monkey park... only to be greeted by a sign declaring "No monkeys." This disheartening message was paired with another sign informing us of an additional 1.6km walk. We collapsed onto a bench at the gift shop, seriously contemplating whether to continue. We notice a couple of other tourists descend the path and we ask them whether there were indeed monkeys. To our delight they say there are!

Reinvigorated by this news, we found a second wind and tackled the final leg of the journey. Beyond the forest path, we were greeted by five to seven lively Japanese Macaques. Some lounged on the walking bridge, while others engaged in mutual grooming sessions on the rocks by the natural hot springs – a wonderful sight that made our earlier struggles worthwhile.

On our way back, we stopped at a small restaurant we'd spotted earlier, boasting an impressive 13 beers on tap. After our monkey adventure, a cold pint and some lunch were exactly what we needed. Feeling refreshed, we made our way back to the hotel. The mostly downhill return journey was a much more pleasant experience than our morning trek.

Back at the hotel, we took a couple of hours to relax and recover in our room before heading down to the lounge for some pre-dinner drinks. The plan was to dine at the rooftop bar and restaurant, which didn't open until 8pm.

When the time came, we made our way to the rooftop and were seated inside one of the igloo-like structures. Menus in hand, we were ready to enjoy a nice meal with a view. However, just as it began to rain, we were promptly informed that the rooftop was now closed, but we could have our meal brought to our room.

A bit disappointed, we retreated to our room to await our dinner. The meal consisted of vegetable canapés (which turned out to be wrapped in salmon) and a cheeseburger (with an unexpected apple twist). Despite these culinary curveballs, the food was quite delicious. This meal reinforced a realisation we'd been having throughout our trip: there doesn't seem to be such a thing as 'bad' food in Japan. Different? Absolutely. Unexpected? Often. But never bad.

The next morning, Steph decided to fully embrace the Japanese experience with a dip in the hotel's onsen. These traditional hot springs are way hotter than you might expect!

We couldn't leave without indulging in one more delicious breakfast at the hotel before we bid farewell to Yamanouchi and boarded our train back to Tokyo for the final chapter of our Japanese adventure.

Kiso Valley

Leaving Kyoto and heading to Nakatsugawa

Our last morning in Kyoto was bittersweet, but with a noon checkout, we were determined to squeeze every last drop out of our time there. We kicked off the day with what Dave declared "the best coffee he's ever had" at Weekenders Coffee. Paired with some morel pastries from 2/7 bakery, it was the perfect fuel for a last-minute spot of shopping.

Onto Nakastugawa

Next stop, Nakatsugawa. This small town would be our base for exploring a section of the historic Nakasendo trail - specifically, the famous walk from Magome to Tsumago.

The Nakasendo was one of five centrally administered routes connecting Edo (modern-day Tokyo) with Kyoto during the Edo period (1603-1868). The Magome to Tsumago section is one of the best-preserved parts of this ancient highway, offering hikers a glimpse into Japan's feudal past. This 8-kilometer stretch between two former post towns has been lovingly restored, allowing visitors to step back in time and experience a slice of old Japan.

We arrived in Nakatsugawa in the late afternoon and took a stroll around the small town, stretching our legs after the train journey. Our wanderings led us to an unexpected culinary gem - Hey's bar and restaurant. Who would have thought we'd find a fusion of Latin, Italian, and Tex-Mex cuisine in this corner of Japan? It turned out to be one of the best meals of our entire trip. Sometimes, the most memorable experiences come when you least expect them!

Magome to Tsumago - The Nakasendo Trail

The next morning, we hopped on a bus to Magome to begin our walk. Magome, our starting point, is a picturesque postal town that looks like it's been frozen in time. Traditional wooden buildings line the steep, stone-paved main street, their dark wood contrasting beautifully with the white plaster walls. Small shops and cafes nestle between former inns, though most are still closed when we get there.

The path took us through a constantly changing landscape - tiny villages, dense forests providing welcome shade, and open rice fields stretching out under the blue sky.

Midway through our hike, we stumbled upon a free tea house run by a local. The aroma of the open fire inside was so inviting. We gratefully accepted the offered icy water, a cup of green tea and a sweet treat as we rested our legs.

Refreshed, we continued on, soon reaching one of the highlights of the trail - the Otaki and Metaki waterfalls. These beautiful cascades, nestled in the dense, almost tropical forest, were a sight to behold. The crystal-clear pools at the base of the falls looked so inviting that it took all our willpower not to jump in for a quick dip!

Finally, we reached Tsumago, the beautiful bookend to our journey. This well-preserved post town, with its traditional buildings and car-free streets, felt like we'd walked right into a scene from a historical drama. After treating ourselves to a cold drink, we caught the bus to the train station to retrieve our bags from Nakatsugawa.

With our belongings in tow, we fueled up with a quick bowl of noodles at the station before boarding a train to Nagano, and then on to Yamanouchi - our gateway to see the famous snow monkeys.

Kyoto Part 2

Dave decided to brave a Japanese barber shop for a much-needed haircut and beard trim. The barber, a lovely chap who somehow managed to sound uncannily like Cookie Monster, wielded an impressive array of specialised scissors, towels and trimmers to freshen him up for the rest of our trip.

With the hair taken care of, we set our sights on a day trip to Nara. But first, a caffeine pit stop was in order. We popped into 2050, a trendy, minimalist coffee shop that epitomises Japanese efficiency with its self-service system. Armed with our coffees and some hastily grabbed baked goods from the train station, we were ready for our day trip.

Nara Deer Park

The train ride to Nara was quick, and after just a short (but very hot) walk from the station, we were greeted by a vast welcoming committee of deer. These deer aren’t your average, shy forest dwellers. Oh no. These guys are seasoned professionals in the art of snack-acquisition. We purchased some deer crackers, and suddenly found ourselves the center of attention in a deer flash mob – nudging, nibbling, and if you're not quick enough, being escorted down the path by a gang of surprisingly assertive deer.

We continued to wander through the expansive park to visit the Kasuga Taisha shrine. Its vibrant orange colour immediately caught our eye. In Shinto belief, orange (or more specifically, the vermilion colour) is believed to ward off evil spirits. It's also associated with the sun, symbolising life and vitality - fitting for these beautiful, ancient structures that have stood the test of time.

Next on our list was the Yoshikien Garden. While its neighbor, the Isuien Garden, often steals the spotlight, we found Yoshikien to be a hidden gem. These smaller, lesser-known gardens offered a tranquil respite from the bustling park, showcasing the meticulous care and artistry of Japanese landscaping.

No trip to Nara would be complete without sampling some local treats. We lined up for the famous freshly made mochi with red bean paste. For the uninitiated, mochi is a soft, chewy rice cake made from pounded rice, often filled with sweet bean paste. The combination of the gooey mochi and the sweet, smooth red bean was absolutely delicious - a perfect end to our Nara adventure.

Later that evening we rallied our energy for dinner at a nearby yakitori restaurant, the perfect comfort food after another day of exploration.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

The next day, despite our bodies protesting from the previous day's adventures, we dragged ourselves out of bed at 6.30am to visit the famous Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. As we arrived, we found the forest already bustling with early risers like ourselves. While the towering bamboo stalks were undoubtedly impressive, creating a unique green-hued light as the morning sun filtered through, we were surprised to find the forest smaller than we'd imagined.

We continued our exploration beyond the bamboo grove and stumbled upon a pond filled with pink lotus flowers in full bloom which was an unexpected delight.

As we meandered through the backstreets of Arashiyama, our growling stomachs led us to a charming little bakery. We indulged in some breakfast pastries to tide us over while waiting for our real objective to open: %Arabica coffee.

The coffee shop is situated right on the river - a surprisingly underrated part of Arashiyama, given how absolutely stunning it is. While we waited in the queue that had already formed before opening (a first for us - queuing for coffee before the shop even opens!), we were captivated by the scene surrounding us. Sipping our iced coffees by the riverside, watching the morning light play on the water - it was one of those perfect travel moments you wish you could bottle up and take home.

Buoyed by this glorious morning, we decided to train back to our hotel but to get off a few tops early to wander through a part of town we hadn’t yet explored.

Back at the hotel, we took the chance to rest our feet and update the blog. But Kyoto wasn't done with us yet. We had one more iconic spot to tick off our list: the Gion district.

The Gion District

We'd read that Gion is best experienced in the late afternoon, so we timed our visit accordingly. On the way, we stopped for some cold soba noodles with a side of tempura - a refreshing and delicious choice for a warm day.

Gion, famous for its traditional architecture and geisha sightings, was... well, famous. It seemed like every other tourist in Kyoto had the same idea as us. The streets were packed with a colourful parade of tourists dressed up in rented kimonos, gleefully posing for photos, trying to capture that perfect shot with the Yasaka Pagoda in the background.

We found ourselves at the Yasaka Shrine, taking a moment to appreciate its beauty before making our way back to the hotel. The golden afternoon light cast a magical glow over the city, making even the busy streets look like scenes from a movie.

Exhausted but content, we opted for a simple dinner of takeaway gyoza from the restaurant opposite our hotel. As we collapsed into bed, our feet aching but our hearts full, we couldn't help but feel a twinge of sadness that our Kyoto adventure was coming to an end.

Kyoto Part 1

We arrived in Kyoto around 4 p.m, greeted by the gorgeous afternoon sun that bathed the city in a warm glow. Our accommodation, Nol Sanjo, is stunning with minimalistic yet elegant design that perfectly captures the essence of Japanese aesthetics. There are also complementary sake tastings and snacks in the lobby each day, which we will definitely be partaking of.

We set out for a walk and wandered through the shops beneath the Ace Hotel, where we stumbled upon a craft beer bar, Dig The Line. We decided to stop and enjoy a hazy IPA and a yuzu saison while people-watching - excellent.

After returning to the hotel for a much needed shower, we ventured out in search of a yakitori restaurant for dinner. We’re very quickly learning that reservations are essential in Kyoto, as we were turned away from two restaurants. However, we finally found a chicken yakitori spot that, while not the most welcoming, offered a delicious meal.

On our walk back through the markets, we couldn’t resist stopping at Family Mart to grab some ice cream sandwiches to satisfy the need for a sweet treat after dinner.

Kyoto Day 2

Our first full day in Kyoto was packed with sights, nature, and delicious food. We started the morning on a mission for breakfast and found ourselves at 2/7 Artisan Bakery. Their selection of pastries and artisan bread was a delicious combination of french and japanese influences. We walked away with a fougasse edamame and fava bean, bacon epi and chocolate and almond croissant. Every bite was delicious! Next stop, a caffeine fix at Stumptown Coffee.

After our coffee, we made our way to Kyoto Gyoen National Garden, a vast, serene park surrounding the Kyoto Imperial Palace. The garden is a lush green space filled with beautifully manicured trees, walking paths, and ponds. The Imperial Palace itself, once the residence of Japan’s emperors, showcases traditional Japanese architecture and offers a tranquil glimpse into the country’s imperial history.

After enjoying the gardens, we caught a bus to the Philosopher’s Path, a scenic walkway along a canal lined with cherry trees. We made a quick stop for another iced coffee at Drip & Drop along the way.

The Philosopher’s Path was simply beautiful and serene. The trees and greenery framed the canal perfectly, and we spotted plenty of fish swimming lazily through the water – such a peaceful stroll. After walking the path, we opted for a scenic walk back to the train station. Along the way, we passed many stunning Japanese homes with intricate and elegant entrances.

On our way, we stopped at the Kyocera Museum of Art to check out their Summer Collection: Women Painted by Women exhibition. The collection showcased striking artwork depicting women through the lens of female artists. The building itself was stunning and we loved the Louis Vuitton and Muraki Takashi Murakami Flower Parent and Child sculpture in the garden. Unfortunately we could go outside to see it as there was construction in the gardens.

Next, we took the train to Fushimi Inari Taisha, the famous Shinto shrine known for its hundreds of striking orange torii gates. As expected, it was crowded with visitors, many dressed in colorful kimono, trying to capture the perfect Instagram shot. About halfway up, we found a side trail leading through a peaceful bamboo forest, providing a welcome escape from the crowds. Afterward, we returned to the final section of the path, managing to catch a rare moment when no one else was around, allowing us to snap a photo of the gates in solitude.

After a busy day, we returned to the hotel, where we enjoyed a complimentary sake tasting in the lobby before freshening up for dinner. That evening, we had the tastiest ramen we’ve ever experienced at Ramen Mugyu Vol. 2 Karasuma Takoyakushi—the flavors were rich, the broth perfectly balanced, and the noodles were spot on.

To cap off our day, we visited Scotch and Branch, a quirky bar with an English telephone booth as the entrance. We enjoyed a few expertly balanced cocktails and rounded off the night with some fine Japanese whisky. After walking nearly 30,000 steps, it was the perfect way to wind down an incredible day.

Fujikawaguchiko

Our third day in Japan brought a welcome reprieve from the rain. Our first stop for the day was back at the bakery where we discovered those incredible Japanese curry doughnuts, paired with another round of coffee from Eight. With breakfast done, we walked to the Shinjuku bus station to check if buses to Kawaguchiko were running. To our delight, they were, so we purchased tickets and returned to our hotel to grab our luggage, ready to leave Tokyo behind for the scenic views of Kawaguchiko!

The bus ride to Kawaguchiko took about two hours, offering a scenic transition from Tokyo's urban sprawl to the lush, green countryside. We got a few glimpses of Mt Fuji from the bus but it quickly clouded over by the time we arrived. After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we set off for a wander around the lake and the surrounding streets.

They had very cute swan paddle boats on the lake and we made a note to come back and hire one if the weather got better. We couldn’t resist stopping for some ice cream on our way back to the hotel to check in. We had matcha, peach, and lavender flavours, the peach being the most delicious!

Once again the rain began, soaking us as we scrambled back to the hotel. By the time we arrived, our feet were thoroughly drenched. Our spirits were quickly lifted when we saw our hotel room—a massive watermelon! It had lots of space with two queen beds that felt like a luxury after the tiny room in Tokyo.

When the rain finally slowed to a drizzle, we headed out to find dinner and settled on High Spirits izakaya. Run by a warm and friendly husband and wife team, the restaurant had a very cosy and welcoming atmosphere. We sat at the bar, right in front of the chef, and enjoyed a delicious meal of miso, edamame, pickled vegetables, truffle and CBD oil tuna sashimi, chicken karaage, and cold roast beef strips, all paired with a dry sake.

Fujikawaguchiko Day 2

The next day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast set at the hotel, a delicious yet unfamiliar start to the morning. The meal included miso soup, rolled egg, Japanese salted plums, pork meatballs and vegetables in broth, slices of ham, and a slice of orange. While it wasn’t the kind of breakfast we were used to, it was undeniably delicious—at least for Steph!

After breakfast, we ventured out in search of coffee, quickly realising that many places don’t open until later in the morning—a small adjustment we’re still getting used to.

Fortunately, the rain held off, so we decided to seize the opportunity and enjoy a walk around a portion of Lake Kawaguchi. Our route took us through Yagisaki Park, where we admired the serene views, and we made a stop at the Fujiomurosengen Shrine, which added a touch of history and culture to our stroll. However, after the last few days of heavy walking, our feet were beginning to protest, and hunger started to set in. We hopped on a bus to return to our starting point for lunch.

We enjoyed a satisfying lunch of ramen and Japanese chicken curry, which provided the perfect fuel for our next adventure—hiring a pastel pink swan peddle boat on the lake. What seemed like a leisurely activity turned out to be a bit more strenuous than expected! We suspect we got the dud swan, as other boats seemed to glide effortlessly across the water while we struggled to keep pace. The awkwardly short pedals didn’t help either, making it difficult to get a full rotation. It was still really fun and we certainly burned off some of our lunch calories!

Back at the hotel, we took some time to relax and update the blog. A couple of hours later, we noticed the sun had come out, so we ventured to the rooftop in hopes of catching a glimpse of Mt. Fuji. Unfortunately, the mountain remained hidden, but we still enjoyed the late afternoon sunshine.

We had planned to visit a bar for a drink, but it turned out that most of them were closed on Sundays. Instead, we headed to 7-Eleven and Lawson’s to gather an assortment of snacks and dinner items. Our haul included chicken inari, spicy chicken and sesame ramen, soy sauce chips, some interesting beers, sake, a sponge cake cream roll, and our new favorite dessert—the shine muscat tart!

Hallelujah, the sun is out

We woke up to a long-awaited sight, the sun was out and Mt. Fuji had finally reappeared from behind the clouds. The day began when Dave, ever the early riser, woke up at 5:15 a.m. to find blue skies peeking through the circular skylight in our room. Knowing this was our last chance to see Fuji before our departure, he roused Steph from her slumber (no easy task) so we could head out and capture the mountain in all its glory.

With our bags packed and breakfast finished, we caught the hotel shuttle to Kawaguchiko Station. From there, we boarded a bus to Mishima Station, where we would catch the Shinkansen to our next destination—Kyoto. As the bus pulled away from Kawaguchiko, we couldn’t help but feel grateful for the clear morning and the stunning views of Mt. Fuji.

Tokyo Day 2

Our second day in Tokyo began with a sense of uncertainty as Typhoon Shanshan threatened to derail our plans to travel to Fujikawaguchiko and Kyoto over the next couple of days. Despite the rain, we managed to turn what could have been a washout into another day full of exploration, delicious food and all round good vibes… just with very wet feet!

Breakfast at Katane Bakery, Nishihara Street in Shibuya

Our first stop was Katane Bakery, nestled on the charming Nishihara Street in Shibuya. This quaint residential street, lined with small cafes, boutique shops, and local businesses, perfectly sets the scene for Katane’s cozy, neighbourhood vibe. We indulged in their homely breakfast sets and savoured a cup of coffee, before picking up some extra baked goods to enjoy later.

With breakfast done, we hopped on a train to see the famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing. The area was alive with flashing billboards, construction and a sea of umbrellas.

The rain continued to pour, so we ducked into nearby malls to stay dry. Inside, we explored the endless floors of high fashion boutiques, restaurants and a rather creepy robot café.

Tokyo Photographic Art Museum

In the afternoon, we visited the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum where we explored all three exhibitions on display. The first exhibition, while interesting, felt a bit odd and amateurish. However, the second exhibition more than made up for it, featuring classic works by legends like Abuget, Weston, and Man Ray and contemporary Japanese photographers like Chen Wei and Terada Mayumi. The third exhibition was a fun interactive experience based on light and movement by Japanese children’s book author, Iwai Toshio.

After the museum, we tried to find a place to grab a beer but many places were closed. Instead, we picked up some beers from a nearby 7-Eleven and enjoyed them back in our room. A quick nap for one of us then it was time to head out for dinner.

Dinner was at a nearby gyoza restaurant with a samurai theme. The food was delicious, but the experience was a bit odd. We started with a scoop of mashed potato as a starter, which felt out of place. We were also the only customers for a while until other tourists gradually filled the place. It wasn't exactly what we were after, but the gyoza were interesting enough to make up for it.

To end the night on a high note, we wandered the streets of Shinjuku and stumbled upon Bar Logue. The bar had a cozy, intimate atmosphere, and the cocktails and Japanese whisky were excellent. It was the perfect place to unwind and reflect on our time in Tokyo before heading to Fujikawaguchiko in the morning.

Tokyo Day 1

We began our Tokyo adventure by checking into the Yuen Hotel in Shinjuku, as we didn’t arrive til after 9.30pm. The room was as beautiful as it was compact—a perfect example of how space is artfully used in Japan.

Stepping outside the next morning, we were greeted by the full force of Tokyo's summer. It was a sweltering 31 degrees, and the humidity was palpable. The weather didn’t deter us, though—as we knocked out 28,582 steps discovering only a spec of the sprawling city.

We stopped by a small café called Eight for coffee. The café had a minimalist vibe, with an emphasis on quality brews. We then went in search of a bakery, strangely many of the cafes and bakeries don’t open til after 11am. Our search led us to a small place very similar to Bread Top in Australia where we discovered the delightful Japanese curry doughnut. Imagine a soft, fluffy doughnut with a crispy, fried exterior that is filled with savoury, spiced curry—a definite favourite!

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

Fed and caffeinated, we then made our way to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. The expansive park, with its blend of traditional Japanese, English, and French gardens, provided a peaceful escape from the city's hustle. Walking through the meticulously maintained paths, we felt a world away from the urban sprawl just outside the gates.

Imperial Palace Gardens

Our next stop was the Imperial Palace Gardens. These historic grounds, with their lush greenery and ancient stone walls, offered a glimpse into Japan's regal past.

As we left the Imperial Palace Gardens, the sky darkened, and the first drops of rain began to fall—Typhoon Shanshan had arrived. The typhoon would give us a bit of anxiety over the next couple of days as bus and trains were suspended due to flooding and mudslides.

Team Labs Borderless

As the drizzle began we headed to Team Labs Borderless at the MORI Building. This digital art museum is like nothing we had seen before. We wandered through a maze of vibrant, ever-changing light installations, each more captivating than the last. One of the highlights was the Tea Experience, where we sipped tea surrounded by a mesmerising display of floating flowers that seemed to bloom and fade in sync with our movements. Would hope to go and see their other immersive exhibition, Planets, when we return to Tokyo at the end of our trip.

Izakaya dinner at Fukumimi Shinjuku

Our day ended on a high note with a visit to Fukumimi in Shinjuku for dinner. This traditional izakaya served up a fantastic selection of Japanese dishes, from edamame and pickled vegetables to skewered waygu and chicken karaage. The buzzing atmosphere and delicious food made for a perfect end to our first day in Tokyo.